Stage One

Locating your aquarium

Where you chose to locate your aquarium will not, on the whole, affect your success at fishkeeping as the equipment provided is designed to maintain a healthy aquarium provided you follow our guidelines. However from a practical viewpoint there are a few rules which, if followed, will help in avoiding certain problems.

(1) First and perhaps obvious, avoid locating your aquarium where it is likely to be knocked into or suffer accidental physical damage, such as a busy hallway or where children play. Quite apart from the possibility of damage, a lot of activity around the aquarium can be disturbing to the fish. If possible, it is better to find a reasonable quiet location, yet one where you get to enjoy relaxing whilst watching your fish.

(2) The aquarium should not be located where it will receive an excessive amount of light, such as by a window which receives direct sunlight.  Excessive light will encourage the growth of unsightly algae and you will find it troublesome to keep this under control.

(3) Also, the aquarium should not be located where it may be subject to excessive heat or cold or sudden large fluctuations in external temperature.  i.e. by a frequently used door where drafts may occur or next to a radiator.  The aquarium will have a thermostatically controlled heater to keep the water temperature up to the correct level, but it will have to work extra hard if the external temperature is very cold.  Conversely, if the external temperature is higher than that set for the aquarium, even though the heater will automatically shut off, it is possible for the aquarium water to become too warm for your fish’s comfort. 

(4) The only other main requirements are that the aquarium must be placed near an electrical socket to provide power for the equipment and that you leave sufficient space around the tank for maintenance to be undertaken without difficulty.

 

On what should the Aquarium stand?

Being that one gallon of water weighs about 10lb, the aquarium will be extremely heavy when filled with water, so it is very important to select the proper stand on which to place your aquarium.  Most aquariums come with the manufacturer’s detailed instructions on how they should be placed/set up and on what sort of base they should stand, (please check both: any label on the inside of the aquarium and the Conditions of Guarantee). The main requirements are that the surface must be capable of supporting the weight of the aquarium when filled and that it should be perfectly level, flat, and smooth so that there is no tendency for the aquarium to twist, rock of distort under the weight and pressure of its water, as this can lead to breakage.  The manufacturer’s instructions explain this but if you’re unsure, we can advise you.

Some aquariums require that a layer of polystyrene must be placed between the base of the aquarium and the supporting surface.  Polystyrene tiles are suitable for this purpose.  Nevertheless, whatever make of aquarium you have it is best to check what is required as it is better to be safe than sorry (but don’t be put off – this is merely a matter of taking the right precautions).

NB. Set your aquarium in its final position before adding gravel and water.  Once the aquarium is filled you must not attempt to move it at all as it will be extremely heavy and any movement may well result in breakage of the glass or the seals.

Setting up an Aquarium : Stage One

Cleaning the Aquarium

Using approximately 1 litre of warm water and a clean, lint-free cloth or sponge, wash the inside and outside of the aquarium and then dry.  Remove any labels from the aquarium at this time.

It is important to note that household cleaning materials such as detergents, soaps, bleach, etc. are extremely poisonous to fish and should never be used in your aquarium, regardless of how thoroughly you may think you can rinse away all traces.  It is a good idea to keep all equipment associated with the aquarium separate from household items so as not to make any mistakes. 

Aquarium Equipment

You are now ready to set up the aquarium.  Apart from the tank itself, you will have three separate groups of ‘hardware’ which relate respectively to filtration, heating and lighting.  It will be helpful if as you read this you set these items out on a table or the floor to identify the components.

When using the filter you need to place the filter in an upright position in the rear back corner of the aquarium, whichever end of the aquarium is easier for you to access for the electrical supply and for regular maintenance.  The pump is provided with suckers and they should be used to secure the pump to the rear or side walls of the aquarium (which ever suits best).  The filter pump should be about level with the water surface although if it is slightly above or below the water surface it will still work correctly.  Don’t worry that the electrical cable entering the pump may be below the water level, this is okay as the unit is designed to be electrically waterproof and passes all the necessary safety standards.

With all other filter types: please follow the manufacturers’ instructions carefully and precisely.

Heating

Your aquarium comes with a Heater Thermostat, which is all that is needed to keep the aquarium water at the correct temperature.  It comes preset, so please do not fiddle with the adjustment knob.  You can adjust this later, once the aquarium has been filled and running for a while, should you find that the water temperature needs to be altered.  The heat comes with a sucker bracket that enables it to be attached to a wall of the aquarium in an upright position.

You will also receive a Thermometer.  It is designed to fit inside the aquarium and to be attached to the side wall of the aquarium, preferably at the opposite end of the aquarium to that of the heater.  The thermometer designates a safety zone in green, outside of which it is not considered safe to keep tropical fish, except in cases where specific fish are being kept that require either higher or lower temperatures.

Lighting

As a general rule you will need between 2 and 4 watts of fluorescent light per gallon of water (Planted aquariums).  The amount of light per day that is required is also very important.  In a new aquarium, 8 hours of light is required per day, building up to a 12-hour light period.  You should increase the amount of light by one hour per month over a four month period until you have reached the 12 hour requirement.
Once the aquarium is filled you should ALWAYS turn off the main power and remove the plug before placing your hands in the water or using any implements (fish nets, scrapers etc) which bring you even into indirect contact with the water.  Feed the other end of the power cable to the outside of the aquarium and leave it loose for the moment – this will be connected later.

Connecting to the Main Power Supply

You should now have three cables coming from the rear of the aquarium; one each for the filter, the heater and the lighting unit.  Although the connections are fairly, the instructions should be followed carefully and precisely.  It is also important to ensure that your mains plugs are fitted with a suitable low-rated fuse, 5 amp maximum to protect your aquarium. 

IF YOU SHOULD HAVE ANY DOUBTS ABOUT ANY ASPECT OF THE WIRING OR ELECTRCIAL CONNECTIONS, YOU SHOULD CONTACT A QUALIFIED ELECTRICIAN.

Filling the Aquarium

You are now ready to fill the aquarium with water.  There is more than one type of water with which you can fill an aquarium, but for this example we recommend using straight tap water even though its raw quality is not suitable for fish.  (We plan to show you over the next few weeks how to turn this tank of tap water into a nicely balanced aquarium).  For the best effect, fill the aquarium so that the water level is just above the bottom edge of the decorative trim, i.e. so that you can’t see the water line.  Now you can switch on the power and check that the electrical equipment functions as expected. If you have any problems at this stage, quickly switch off the power and contact your supplier, who will try to diagnose what might be wrong.  However, if all seems to be operating properly, we suggest that you now leave the filter and heater running (you can ,of course, switch the light on and off as you choose).  Allow the water to age and come up to temperature to ensure that the equipment continues to function correctly.

A few Do’s and Don’ts

Always make sure that the mains power to the aquarium and its equipment is switched off and that the mains plug is removed from the socket before putting your hands into the water or using any tools or implements (such as fish nets, scrapers, etc.) which may bring you even into indirect contact with the water. 

All water pumps and heater are designed to be operated only when properly submerged and should never be run dry.  Therefore, make sure that the power to these pieces of equipment is switched off if, for any reason, you lower the level of water in the aquarium (e.g for a water change or other maintenance).  You should note that the glass tube of the heater retains its heat for a while after it has been switched off and you should therefore allow it to cool in the water for about 30 minutes after switching it off before exposing it to the air, so as to reduce the possibility of the glass cracking.

Never attempt to move (even slightly) a full or even partly filled aquarium as this may well result in breakage of the glass or the seals.

Always wash your hands thoroughly after coming into contact with the inside of the aquarium.  Also, never place freshly washed hands into the aquarium, as any traces of soap or detergent will adversely affect your fish.

Do make sure that you have appropriate and adequate insurance against any loss, damage, injury, etc. which could result should an accident occur with/to your aquarium or its equipment, or it if should for any reason, leak, break or burst.  Your insurance company and / or insurance adviser will be able to advise you on this matter.