Although individual mice are fastidious creatures and spend a great deal of time grooming & washing, it is an undoubted fact that males especially have a strong odour; frequent cleaning of solid corners will help.
Housing
As mice are past masters at squeezing through small spaces, the bar gauge (the space between the bars) should be no more than 8mm. Many cages suitable for hamsters have a much wider gauge, so always check and make sure you get the correct gauge. Aquariums also make good cages for mice. Aquariums offer all round vision whilst also keeping the occupants warm and snug and safe from draughts. Do not place cages or aquariums in direct sunlight. Some aquariums come with a lid, but ventilation holes will need to be drilled into it, or construct a lid out of small gauge wire, the more solid the better. Chicken wire is not really suitable as it breaks up too easily, also a persistent mouse will eventually manage to chew through it. Mice are nothing if not persistent so whatever type of cage you choose, beware the activities of the ESCAPE COMMITTEE. Minimum cage size for a pair of mice is 30cm x 20cm x 20cm.
Position of Cage
Aquariums especially should not be put in direct sunlight, and cages should be kept out of cold draughts. Place the cage in a quiet room – especially when you have just taken it home.
Feeding
Against all popular belief most mice do not actually like cheese. Like any other pet it requires a well balanced diet. Best combinations of dry food include rolled oats, mixed corn, flaked maize and dried crushed peas. Too many peanuts and sunflower seeds are not good as they are too rich in protein. Occasionally dog biscuits are quite nutritious and also give mice something extra to gnaw. Mice can be given some greens as, apart from the vitamins, they also contain a good degree of moisture. Lettuce is best AVOIDED. Carrot, turnip and swede are good for filling, but cabbage and sprouts are also acceptable. Natural greens include chickweed, dandelion and young grass shoots – but always wash thoroughly before feeding. Apple is a favourite fruit with tomatoes as 2nd best; remember though greens should be given sparingly, once or twice a week is often enough.
Cleaning
Sawdust is more preferable to mice, but shavings are acceptable. Put a good layer on the floor of the cage. Like hamsters a jam jar placed in the corner will be used as a toilet and is easy to clean. Bedding placed in a nest box makes a warm safe place for sleeping. Clean the cage frequently and use an animal disinfectant to keep the cage smelling sweet and disease free.
Exercise/Furnishings.Toys
Mice do not really go much for toys but toilet rolls are often used for makeshift burrows and gnawing activities. A small block of wood in the cage is also a good idea. Mice do love to gnaw (although not all do) and a piece of wood will prevent mice from damaging parts of their cage. Mice are quite acrobatic and many toys suitable for birds e.g. ladders ands swings will be appreciated. Make sure you buy metal ones – unless you do not mind wooden ones being chewed. Exercise wheels are also useful; a solid one is best as tails can sometimes get caught.
Settling in and Holding
When you get your new mouse home put it in its new cage with a supply of food and water and leave it to settle in for a day or so. The way to most animals hearts is through their stomach so tasty titbits will help your mouse get to know you, till eventually your pet will feel confident enough to climb onto your palm. If required you can hold your pet by the tail CLOSE TO THE BASE to keep it from jumping off. It is a good idea to sit on a chair or sofa and let your new friend explore and run over you. Be prepared in case it should make a break for freedom! Eventually by stroking and talking to your mouse gently it should become tame and confident in your company.
Company
Single sex colonies – 2 females (does) or more are best, 2 males out of the same litter would get on, but sometimes fighting will eventually occur over territory/supremacy. Also males do smell more.
Problems
Mice can suffer from mites, like guinea pigs it’s usually brought in with untreated hay or sawdust.
Life Expectancy: 1.5 – 2 years
*If the mice becomes ill, veterinary treatment may be needed; the cost of this is likely to be three or four times the cost of buying the mice, perhaps more. Unfortunately, because of this, some people may regard a mice as a ‘disposable’ pet because it is cheaper to leave an ill mice untreated and buy another than to seek veterinary care. Any animal is a living creature that deserves the best care to remain healthy and this includes treatment when it is ill. If you are not prepared to care properly for the mice and seek veterinary advice when it is ill, then you are not ready for the responsibility of pet ownership. Although many mice will never need veterinary treatment during their life, you should be prepared for the possibility when taking on the commitment of a pet.*
